When it comes to the traditional textiles of Assam, Paat silk holds a special place for its lustrous texture, lightweight feel, and cultural elegance. Often referred to as Assamese mulberry silk, Paat is widely used in making mekhela chadars, sarees, and ceremonial wear. In 2025, this heritage fabric continues to shine, blending age-old craftsmanship with modern tastes.
What Is Paat Silk?
Paat (also spelled ‘paat’ or ‘pat’) is silk derived from the mulberry silkworm (Bombyx mori). Known for its brilliant white or off-white sheen, Paat silk is prized for its soft texture, smooth finish, and natural glow. Unlike Muga’s golden hue or Eri’s matte appeal, Paat silk offers a bright, refined look that is ideal for both everyday wear and special occasions.
Origins and Historical Significance
The production of Paat silk in Assam dates back centuries and is intricately linked to the region’s cultural and economic fabric. Historical records indicate its use during the Ahom dynasty, where nobles and royals adorned themselves in luxurious Paat attire. The word ‘paat’ itself is often associated with dignity, purity, and grace in Assamese literature and folklore.
How Paat Silk Is Made
The production process begins with rearing mulberry silkworms, which feed on fresh mulberry leaves. Once the cocoons are harvested, they are boiled and the silk threads are carefully reeled, spun, and dyed using traditional methods. The weaving is typically done on throw shuttle looms, and the motifs—often floral, geometric, or inspired by nature—are woven into the fabric using extra weft techniques.
In 2025, a growing number of cooperatives are adopting eco-friendly methods, including plant-based dyes and solar-powered looms.
Weaving Centers and Artisan Communities
The hub of Paat silk weaving is Sualkuchi, famously known as the ‘Manchester of Assam’. Here, families have been engaged in silk weaving for generations. Other active clusters include Bijni, Nalbari, and parts of Dhemaji and Jorhat. Many weavers belong to small-scale artisan families and self-help groups, with women comprising over 65% of the workforce in this sector.
Cultural Importance in Assamese Traditions
Paat silk is deeply rooted in Assamese customs and ceremonies. During Rongali Bihu, weddings, and religious events, it is common to see women donning Paat mekhela chadars—considered symbols of elegance and respect. It is also a popular gift item, signifying purity and tradition. The weave patterns often tell cultural stories or reflect indigenous art forms, making every piece unique.
Paat in Modern Fashion
In 2025, Paat silk is no longer confined to traditional attire. Designers are experimenting with Paat-based western silhouettes, fusion wear, stoles, jackets, and even home décor. Online platforms have made Paat accessible across India and globally. Assamese brands and boutique houses are showcasing handcrafted Paat in Paris, London, and Tokyo, giving this humble fabric international acclaim.
Government Support and Revival Efforts
The Assam government, through its Sericulture Department and schemes like Assam Handloom Mission 2.0, has rolled out subsidies, skill-training programs, and market linkages for Paat silk weavers. In 2025, a major initiative includes a digital directory of registered Paat artisans to combat fake products and support genuine craftsmanship.
Collaborations with fashion schools and exhibitions in metro cities are also reviving interest in this handloom art.
Paat vs Muga and Eri: What Sets It Apart
While Muga silk is known for its natural golden hue and Eri silk for its thermal comfort and ethical production, Paat silk stands out for its lightweight comfort, glossy finish, and affordability. It is easier to dye, making it versatile for contemporary use. Paat is often preferred for summer weddings due to its breathability and smooth texture against the skin.
Challenges and the Way Forward
Despite its legacy, the Paat silk industry faces challenges:
- Cheaper machine-made alternatives flooding markets
- Low wages and lack of social security for weavers
- Migration of youth away from traditional crafts
- Limited awareness among younger buyers
However, rising demand for sustainable, ethical, and handmade fashion is creating new opportunities. Awareness campaigns, storytelling through social media, and support from influencers and conscious consumers are playing a key role in shaping a brighter future.
In 2025, Assamese Paat silk continues to symbolize dignity, tradition, and artisanal excellence. As Assam reclaims its place on the global textile map, this luminous fabric remains not just a garment—but a living piece of heritage, woven with care, pride, and generations of skill. Whether you’re draping a mekhela chadar or styling a contemporary Paat scarf, you’re wearing a story of Assam.
